Editing Power Supply

Most PS3 models have a universal (multi-voltage) built-in power supply (some PS3 FAT models have [[LSEB1226B1]], [[LSEB1254A1]] or [[APS-227]] power supplies that are rated as 220-240V input only and cannot operate correctly with voltages under 220V). This means that even though a specific voltage is written on the outside of the PS3 if it has a universal PSU it can actually be plugged in anywhere in the world and work (as long as you have the correct power cable), if you open up a PS3 the supported voltages should be listed on the power supply as 100V-240V which is the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country range for all power outlets in the world] if it has a universal PSU.

== PSU Model @ SKU compatibility ==

<span style="color:#FF0000;">The earliest batch of PS3 had the ZSSR5391A power supply, which as you can see in the above table draws a lot of amps from your power outlet. You can replace it with newer compatible power supply models that draw less power and produce less heat.</span> Less heat means less bending of the motherboard, less cracking of the solder, less fan noise, lower electricity bills, and no "Yellow Light of Death." In fact, for most models of the PS3, you can find a better power supply to replace the original. One of the main compatibility criteria is the number of pins on the power supply. It must match the number of pins on your connector cable. <span style="color:#FF0000;">The second is to try to find the highest efficiency model that still satisfies the proper output power that your PS3 is rated for.</span>

As a general rule, all power supplies (not just the ones in PS3s) are most efficient at approximately 50% load, this is why almost all PSU models in the chart are rated for roughly twice what the PS3 draws under full load. EG. A CECHA/B draws approximately 200-220W when under full load using an APS-226, this power draw number is slightly higher when using the original ZSSR PSU which also runs notably warmer because it is less efficient and converts more of the energy into waste heat.

<!--/ (there is a report of APS-270 compatible with [[CECH-30xx]] with force)... this doesn't seems to be possible, compare the air intakes in the PSU's used in CECH-30xx series with the air intakes in all the other PSU's in slim models CECH-20xx, CECH-21xx, CECH-25xx... are different so doesn't fit with the air tunnel/heatsink cover --~~~~ -->

This is useful for tests, repairs, flashing, etc... (as a [http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Powering power source tool] used temporally), or permanently to reduce heat inside the PS3's case to avoid overheating

For a permanent install is <span style="color:#FF0000;">highly suggested</span> to purchase connectors that will fit the PSU and motherboard to create a proper power cable adaptor. Remember that inside the console the fan also gives the PSU some airflow, so it is <span style="color:#FF0000;">highly recommended</span> to add a fan to your external PSU to make sure the PSU doesn't get too hot (it does not have to spin very fast just enough to keep the internal temperatures constant and low enough to not cause damage).

The correct thickness of the wires needed for the 12v plugs depends on the number of amperes (A) the PSU provides on the 12v rail, if you want to "play it safe" a good idea is to exceed this requirement by a lot (considering the full amperes of the 12v rail will travel along these wires, this is not the same case with a PC where the total amperes assigned to the 12v rail are divided in a lot of yellow wires so they are thinner than we need for a PS3). As an example, the oldest PS3 PSU's with 32A can use AWG10 wires, and newer PSU's with 13A can use AWG16 wires, for other intermediate models you can take a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes (the value of the "ampacity" column)

Please remember the obvious: Check with a multimeter to find which is positive and which is negative! (use a tester in continuity, and measure which plug is connected to the border of the PSU board, the border is always ground), after identifying it you can use a permanent black pen to mark it to avoid forgiving it

Also, ensure the connections are solid and have no dry joints when soldering. All of this also applies when extending the white power cable from the PSU to the motherboard.

If you get the positive/negative the wrong way around the red standby light will light up but the console will not power on

*'''Twisted wires (the ghetto style, no connectors)'''

This is very simple, get a thick cable like a 110v/220v power cable and strip off the shielding. This exposes the positive and negative wires, from here simply strip off the shielding of the two and twist the ends. Appropriately plug the correct positive & negative into the PSU (PSU's always have female connectors, cylindrical in FAT models and plain in slim and super slim models, this is basically a hole you can plug anything into, even a cable without a connector) and wrap the other positive & negative end on the poles of the PS3's motherboard

*'''Alligator clips (temporary)'''

Alligator clips grab anything with strength (and good ones have a plastic cover that covers up the clip after grabbing to avoid short circuits), are good but should be considered temporary

Perfect for PS3 FAT PSU's, use 4.5 millimeter "banana plug" ones, you can attach them to a wire permanently with a pair of pliers

File:Plug1.jpg|4,5 millimeters "banana plug" male terminals (for PS3 FAT PSU's)

Relays for 12V line

next to relays RY101

Over Current Protection Adjustment (DO NOT TOUCH THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING) <br />

DO NOT use an external transformer! Use only a passive travel plug, quote from the PS3 manuals:

:''Do not connect the AC power cord to a voltage transformer or inverter. Converting the AC power cord to a voltage transformer for overseas travel or use in an automobile may cause heat to build up in the system and may cause burns or a malfunction.''