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In most cases, you'll want a PSU rated at least the same as the one that was included with the PS3. Going with a higher rating would be optional, with the caveat that the PSU may generate a higher level of heat. Going with a lower rating should be discouraged.
In most cases, you'll want a PSU rated at least the same as the one that was included with the PS3. Going with a higher rating would be optional, with the caveat that the PSU may generate a higher level of heat. Going with a lower rating should be discouraged.


== Power and heat testing methodology ==
Things to take note of before doing any testing<br>
1. The voltage your country uses, this can be seen on most wattage meters by simply pressing the Voltage button. In North America and Japan this will likely be between 100-120V. For the rest of the world the voltage will likely be between 200-240V<br>
2. The ambient temperature of the room must be measured either at the end of the testing or throughout the entire test<br>
Testing methods:<br>
1. Choose if you want to do all of the testing for the console in the horizontal or the vertical orientation.<br>
2. Set the fan speed to a single number and note down what that number is, if you would like to do the testing with the syscon fan profile just make sure to note that down as "syscon default profile"<br>
3. Make sure to set the console in an area where: <br>
a. it is not in direct sunlight<br>
b. it is not being heated or cooled by any objected like a fan or a heater<br>
c. it has at least 2 feet (~60CM) of distance between the console and any other objects<br>
4. Determine which game you will be using, and if the power measurements you get are consistent across multiple runs of the same area in game<br>
eg: A race in GT6 may draw more power than the exact same race replayed using the in game replay tool.<br>
eg: GTA 4 or GTA 5 may draw more or less power when driving down the same street due to a difference in the number of cars or pedestrians on screen at any one time.


== Max Power ratings ==
== Max Power ratings ==
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==How it works==
==How it works==
<div style="float:right">[[File:SlimPSU-pinout.jpg|210px|thumb|right|CN101 4-pin connectors]]<br />[[File:SYSCON_SWx_JTP-001_JSD-001_HSW-001_CN101.jpg|210px|thumb|right|Syscon connections to PSU and to switch board]]</div>
===Slims===
===Slims===
Based on a CECH-25xx... probably the same for all PS3 models using the 4 pins "CN101" PSU connector. See: http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=58231
*Based on a CECH-25xx... probably the same for all PS3 models using the 4 pins "CN101" PSU connector
**See: http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/File:SlimPSU-pinout.jpg
**See: http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=58231
**See: http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/images/0/04/SYSCON_SWx_JTP-001_JSD-001_HSW-001_CN101.jpg
 


*You plug PS3 power cord to one of your house wallplugs
*You plug PS3 power cord to one of your house wallplugs
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**The schematic used in the video is electrically perfect
**The schematic used in the video is electrically perfect
*Cons:
*Cons:
**A single wire of a ATX PSU (most probably) is not designed to carry 12v@16A... so the plastic cover of the wire and the connector/s are going to warm up and eventually melt, creating a shorcut and posible damage in the PSU and PS3
**A single wire of a ATX PSU (most probably) is not designed to carry 12v@16A... so the plastic cover of the wrire and the connector/s are going to warm up and eventually melt, creating a shorcut and posible damage in the PSU and PS3


===Advanced (to use permanently)===
===Advanced (to use permanently)===
*Problems needed to solve:
*Problems needed to solve:
**The 12v/gnd problem mentioned above. To avoid this problem you need to check the wire code that usually is printed in it (and google it) to see how much max Amps it allows... incase this amount is not enought for your PS3 motherboard requirements (16A for a CECH-25xx) you need to "twist" several wires together, and this wires needs to belong to the same rail inside the PSU (so you need to open the ATX PSU to check which yellow ones are soldered together to choose that ones)
**The 12v/gnd problem mentioned above. To avoid this problem you need to check the wire code that usually is printed in it (and google it) to see how much max Amps it allows... incase this amount is not enought for your PS3 motherboard requirements (16A for a CECH-25xx) you need to "twist" several wires together, and this wires needs to belong to the same rail inside the PSU (so you need to open the ATX PSU to check which yellow ones are soldered together to choose that ones)
**The signal sent by syscon to the original PSU (to switch on the 12v rail) is 3.3v, but an ATX PSU is turned on by grounding the green wire of ther ATX connector, the way to solve this involves using <abbr title="syscon connected to the transistor base (to open/close it), ATX green wire to the transistor collector, and the transistor emitter to ground">a transistor</abbr>
**The signal sent by syscon to the original PSU (to switch on the 12v rail) is a 3.3v... but an ATX PSU is turned on by grounding the green wire of ther ATX connector
**A modern ATX PSU has a rail for 5VSB that is permanently enabled, without need to have the PSU fan spinning (noiseless), and this rail uses to have around 3A or more... for the PS3 are only needed 5v@1A so using this rail is very convenient because you can keep your PS3 in standby with the ATX supplying the 5VSB (for syscon and friends) and the fan stopped
**A modern ATX PSU has a rail for 5VSB that is permanently enabled, without need to have the PSU fan spinning (noiseless), and this rail uses to have around 3A or more... for the PS3 are only needed 5v@1A so using this rail is very convenient because you can keep your PS3 in standby with the ATX supplying the 5VSB and the fan stopped
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